Wednesday, August 18, 2010

Illinizas-Norte and Sur


Just added these top 4 photos taken by our ace guide Henry.




The objective for the day....Norte at 5126m
Note the similarity b/t toque and said peak....or is that the shape of Studley's head.

Yup...the geezers have more money than energy. First time I've ever rented a horse to carry my gear. Just up to the refuge though. A two hour walk without packs



Our digs for the night.



Even money for a guide. 70 per day for the guide and 70usd per day for his 4wd. Henry Moya, 36 and plenty of experience in the Andes of Peru and Bolivia. He's on this page.
http://andeanface.com/company.htm#guides


Studley in action

Summit...no views this particular day. An hour and a half I think? from the refuge

Summit rock hug. Squirrel's 3rd time up here.

Back down

No this is not an appropriate place for a squirt Squirrel.

Still going up norte

...and down norte

This is Illiniza Sur 5263m. Grade IV/70 degrees. Front point and two ice axes for about 300m of the 600m route. 3:45 up. Studley had altitude sickness and stayed in the refuge. Left at 5am and back by to the refuge by 11am. This foto is a belay off the glacier. Never done anything like it....what a blast! Had to downclimb the same way too...face to the slope. Love the way the tools and crampons bite the snow. Never got a shot of the steep bit...just a bit too risky to pull the camera out.



Ice screw for pro. However the snowbridge in the photo above was a bit too thin and we doubled back to the other side of the crevasse for a safer crossing.

Obligatory summit hero shot. No views on Sur either. I do have some great shots of it here though from a previous scramble up norte on a clear day
http://tober-zambrano.blogspot.com/search/label/Illiniza%20Norte%205126m%20and%20Corazon%204788m

3 comments:

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Ken Schmaltz said...

Looks like I have to come back for Sur...and Altar and Chimborazo...

Ken Schmaltz said...

Looks like I have to come back for Sur...and Altar and Chimborazo...